A Wayfarer's Journal

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Panama's Old Town: Casco Viejo

My favorite part of our trip to Panama was, by far, Casco Viejo.  Panama's historic "Old Town" was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2003 and is actively working to restore its beauty and charm.

Founded in 1519, Casco Viejo was the original site of Panama City.  When U.S. construction on the canal began in 1904, the resulting population growth and urban expansion prompted the city’s elite to abandon the neighborhood, leaving it to fall into ruin.  Today’s Casco Viejo, however, is widely considered to be a rising star among must-see destinations.


An example of a beautifully restored building in Casco Viejo

Standing in stark contrast to the stunning skyline of Panama City, Casco Viejo’s brick streets and beautiful old buildings and cathedrals -- some dating back to the1700’s -- make it hard to believe the two are only a few short miles apart.

We saw lots of laundry drying on the balconies of the dilapidated buildings

Existing side-by-side in Casco Viejo, you can see gorgeous old houses impeccably restored as condos, crumbling ruins of once extraordinary buildings complete with the occasional tree growing in the middle of a vast empty room, laundry drying on clotheslines hung from dilapidated balconies, and gentrified cathedrals.  Catedral Metropolitana was originally built in 1796, and was renovated in 2003 after being essentially abandoned.  The massive stone entrance, with its wooden doors and flanking white towers encased in mother of pearl, welcome visitors into a surprisingly simple interior.

Catedral Metropolitana

A glimpse of the skyline from a Casco Viejo street

Casco Viejo is home to abundant restaurants and cafes that can satisfy pretty much any craving you might have:  Panamanian, Italian, French, Cuban, and Spanish just to name a few.  Be sure not to miss the local favorite, Ceviche -- a seafood dish in which fresh fish is “cooked” by contact with citrus juice (usually lime), and combined with chopped onion, salt, and seasonings such as cilantro.

Don't miss out on some delicious ceviche and, of course, a mojito!

Casco Viejo’s evolution into a travel hot spot is apparent all over the long-standing neighborhood.  Innumerable construction sites and tourists of all ages and nationalities leave no doubt that this former urban slum will soon be on the short list of must-see places of people all over the globe.

Scott at an open-air market in Casco Viejo

Who knew pelicans roosted in trees?

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